Alexander Pancoe, a celebrated American mountaineer and philanthropist

Alex Pancoe Alexander Pancoe, 39, died in Nepal (Alexpancoe/Instagram)

Tragedy on Makalu: Alex Pancoe’s Final Expedition

Alexander Pancoe, a celebrated American mountaineer and philanthropist

Alexander Pancoe, 39, died in Nepal (Alexpancoe/Instagram)

The mountaineering world is mourning the loss of Alex Pancoe, a passionate climber, philanthropist, and adventurer, who passed away on May 4, 2025, during an expedition on Mt. Makalu – the fifth-highest mountain in the world.

Alex, 39, died at Camp II on the 8,485-meter Himalayan giant after returning from a high-altitude rotation to Camp III. Reports suggest he suffered a sudden cardiac arrest. He was part of a team pushing toward the summit in Nepal’s spring climbing season.

Pancoe was attempting to summit Makalu, as part of a fundraising effort. He aimed to raise $27,838 – matching the peak’s height in feet – for pediatric blood cancer research at Lurie Children’s Hospital in Chicago, where he had previously been treated for a brain tumor. He was also living with chronic myeloid leukemia at the time of the climb.

His story was one of resilience, adventure, and giving back. A seasoned adventurer, Pancoe completed the Explorers Grand Slam in 2019, a rare achievement involving climbing the highest mountain on each continent and skiing to both poles. He was known not just for his climbing record, but also for using his expeditions to support mental health awareness and children’s healthcare.

Recovery efforts are underway, and Pancoe’s family has been notified.

Alex Pancoe approached climbing with purpose combining big mountains with big causes. His Makalu expedition was one more example of that mission.

Alexander Pancoe, 39, died in Nepal (Alexpancoe/Instagram)
Alexander Pancoe, 39, died in Nepal (Alexpancoe/Instagram)
Anano Atabegashvili

About Anano Atabegashvili

Anano Atabegashvili is a journalist with over 7 years of experience in broadcasting and online media. She combines her two greatest passions - writing and mountains - through in-depth reporting on the world of high-altitude exploration. Though not a climber herself, she has covered remote stories, interviewed leading alpinists, and built a unique voice in expedition journalism. As the author of the Summiters Club blog, Anano delivers timely, insightful coverage of climbs, challenges, and the evolving culture of alpinism - with a journalist’s precision and a deep admiration for the mountain world.

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