Bold First Ascent: Grandes Jorasses Cassin Route

In a daring early-season push, Grigoriy Chshukin, Marius Gruzauskas and Omarik have successfully summited the north face of the Grandes Jorasses via the legendary Cassin route on the Walker Spur – one of the most formidable walls in the Alps.

The Coldest Wall, The Boldest Timing

Standing at 4,208 meters, the Grandes Jorasses is known not only for its towering presence but also for its brutal conditions. The Cassin route (1200 m, 6a, M5, A2, R) typically sees ascents in late July or August when much of the route is dry and rock sections are climbable. Attempting it in late June is a gamble, but the team seized a rare good-weather window, knowing they would face a much more mixed, icy line than usual.

“We knew it was early,” Chshukin shared, “but the weather called for something big.”

Three Intense Days on the Wall

The trio started climbing after reaching the base around lunchtime. By the afternoon, they were caught in a heavy thunderstorm and were forced into a soaking wet bivy on a narrow ledge, just above the 75-meter corner, after about 400 meters of climbing.

On the second day, the team pushed hard, aiming for the summit. While they didn’t make it to the top that day, they were at least able to rest properly for the night – this time lying down and without helmets on.

The final day saw them quickly reaching the summit, but their adventure was far from over. The descent to the Italian side took more than ten grueling hours, testing their endurance right to the end.

“The descent itself is a story on its own,” Chshukin reflected, hinting at tales still waiting to be told.

A Season of Firsts

This is the second significant achievement for the team this season, following their earlier ascent of PT-Drew. It appears they were the first climbers of the season to top out on the Cassin route this year -a remarkable feat considering the mixed and difficult conditions they faced.

Summary of the Ascent:

• Route: Grandes Jorasses, North Face, Cassin Route, Walker Spur
• Grade: 1200 m, 6a, M5, A2, R
• Style: Alpine, mixed conditions, early season
• Team: Grigoriy Chshukin, Marius Gruzauskas, Omarik (@omarik333)

The team’s bold decision to tackle one of the Alps’ coldest and most intimidating faces this early in the season is a testament to their skill, resilience, and appetite for serious alpine adventure. We look forward to hearing the full story soon.