Famous Patagonia Route Gets First Winter Ascent

Photo: Gripped Magazine

Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori have completed the first winter ascent of the Casarotto route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia, Argentina.

The 1,500-metre route, originally soloed by Renato Casarotto in January 1979, is one of the most sought-after routes in the range. Casarotto dedicated the route to his wife, Goretta Traverso. Casarotto, born in Vicenza in 1948, was among the strongest alpinists of his generation, known for difficult solo and winter ascents in the Alps and beyond.

“It’s a climb I dreamed of since I was a kid,” said Majori. “My dad was here with Casarotto and took a photo, later printed in black and white, that we had hanging at home: you could see Casarotto, tiny and alone, on that immense wall. Growing up with an image like that inevitably makes you dream. And that dream finally came true.

Shorter daylight and ice-covered cracks made for difficult climbing during Bordella and Majori’s ascent. Majori’s father had climbed with Casarotto, adding personal significance. Della Bordella, familiar with Patagonia from summer expeditions, had long hoped to experience the region in winter.

source: Gripped Magazine