Hungarian Climber Aims for Shkhara’s Epic Ascent
Photo: gyorplusz.hu
Hungarian mountaineer Kovács Albert, renowned in professional climbing circles, is preparing for one of the most daring challenges of his career: Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak and one of Europe’s toughest climbs. No Hungarian has ever reached its summit, making this expedition historic as well as ambitious.
On September 15, Kovács and his three-man team: Péter Mógor, Barnabás Demény, and newcomer Szabolcs Pekker headed to Georgia for a 5-6 day expedition, returning home on September 24. While Mógor and Demény are returning climbers from the Kazbek expedition, Pekker joins for the first time, gaining invaluable experience on this challenging ascent.
Europe’s Most Demanding Peak
Shkhara rises to 5,200 meters, the third highest peak in the Caucasus, just slightly below Dykh-Tau. Despite its height, the mountain is notorious for its technical difficulty: climbers face rock, ice, glaciers, and snow. Previous Hungarian attempts have come within 200 meters of the summit, but none have succeeded.
Albert emphasizes the importance of careful decision-making and safety. “Mountains know no mercy,” he says. “A bad decision at the top cannot always be corrected. This year has already claimed too many lives.”
Teamwork Above All
The team operates without a single leader, making decisions collectively to ensure everyone ascends and descends safely together. They have drawn on the experiences of other Hungarian climbers, especially Gusztáv Bácskai, who attempted Shkhara twice.
“Everyone contributes knowledge, experience, and opinion. Together, we decide the best course,” Kovács explains. “The mountain is unforgiving, but with a coordinated team, anything is possible.”
Photo: gyorplusz.hu
Strategy and Preparation
The climbers chose summer for the ascent, when snow is lighter and rock faces more exposed, making anchor placement easier. Temperatures will range between -10 and -15 °C.
Each climber carries 15-16 kg backpacks, with tents as their only shelter, often pitched directly on snow. Nutrition is critical: they will burn 2,000-3,000 calories per day and rely on high-calorie mountaineering meals, plus Kovács’ homemade vacuum-sealed sausage, bacon, and cheese for extra energy. Hydration comes from melted snow mixed with salts and electrolytes.
Epic Goals
The expedition aims to reach the summit and plant the Hungarian flag, but Kovács remains realistic: “If it doesn’t work, we come home and try again. The mountain will still be there. Success depends on careful decisions, teamwork, and returning safely.”
Beyond climbing, the team is also inspired by giving back. Past support from ZTS Hungária Kft. helped fund climbing shoes for a child in need, demonstrating that mountaineering can extend beyond personal achievement to make a positive impact.
Having departed on September 15, the team is now on their way up Shkhara, a peak that has tested climbers for generations. Whether they reach the summit or turn back to try again, their journey already reflects courage, preparation, and the enduring spirit of exploration.
We wish Kovács and his team the best of luck as they tackle Shkhara – may they climb safely and successfully!
About the Author
Anano Atabegashvili is a journalist with over 5 years of experience in broadcasting and digital media. Passionate about writing and mountains, she brings a unique voice to high-altitude storytelling. As the author of the Summiters Club blog, Anano offers sharp, engaging coverage of climbs, challenges, and the evolving world of alpinism.
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