First Ascent of Untouched 6,000m Peak in the Karakoram

Photo: Polski Himalaizm Sportowy/Facebook
In a remarkable achievement for alpine exploration, a Czech team has made the first ascent of an unclimbed 6,000-meter peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The climbers – Jiri Sika, Petr Kriz, and Martin Klemsa – reached the summit of the unnamed mountain on September 21, 2025, and later proposed the name “Surovi Parbat.”
The expedition took place in Shimshal Valley, a remote and rugged area of the Karakoram known for its technical peaks and challenging terrain. The trio first spotted the mountain during a previous expedition and returned this year specifically to attempt its ascent.

Approaching through the Momal Glacier, the climbers established base camp at around 4,500 meters. Over several days, they explored possible routes and identified a narrow ridge that offered the most promising line to the top. Climbing in pure alpine style, they set off from high camp at 5,200 meters, facing unstable rock, steep ice slopes, and rapidly changing weather conditions typical of the region.
After a 10-hour push, they reached the summit, where GPS measurements confirmed an altitude of 6,048 meters. From the top, they had spectacular views of nearby peaks such as Distaghil Sar and Kanjut Sar.
The ascent was completed without fixed ropes or supplemental oxygen, showcasing both the team’s technical skill and their commitment to clean, lightweight climbing ethics. They described the route as “demanding but beautiful,” with a mix of rock and ice sections that required precise coordination and endurance.
Following their successful climb, the Czech team suggested naming the mountain “Surovi Parbat,” which means “Raw Mountain,” to reflect its untouched nature and the raw challenge it presented.
This ascent adds a new chapter to the growing legacy of exploratory climbing in the Karakoram, where many 6,000-meter peaks remain unclimbed and unnamed: a reminder that there are still frontiers left to explore in the world’s great ranges.

Photo: Polski Himalaizm Sportowy/Facebook