Legendary Mountaineer Henry Todd Dies at 80 in Kathmandu

Veteran British expedition organizer Henry B. Todd has died in Kathmandu at the age of 80, marking the end of a remarkable era in Himalayan mountaineering. Todd passed away at 12:00 noon on November 2, 2025, at HAMS Hospital, where he was undergoing treatment following a successful heart surgery on October 28. Doctors confirmed that the cause of death was a stroke.The Scottish-born climber, expedition leader, and long-time Himalayan outfitter had been admitted to the hospital on October 27.

Over a career spanning four decades, Todd organized more than 70 major Himalayan expeditions, including 45 climbs to peaks above 8,000 meters. He first joined an Everest expedition in 1989, attempting the mountain via the West Ridge. Since then, he had returned to Nepal almost every year, building a legacy that intertwined deeply with the country’s mountaineering history. Todd summited several major Himalayan peaks, including Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Pumori, and Ama Dablam, and also attempted Annapurna in 1988. In 1995, through his UK-based company Ice8000, Todd led one of his most successful expeditions – an Everest North Ridge ascent that saw eight climbers reach the summit.

Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, Henry Todd became one of the most recognized figures in the Himalayan climbing scene. His towering 6-foot-3-inch presence and booming voice made him a fixture at Everest Base Camp, where climbers affectionately called him “the mayor of Base Camp” or “the governor.”

A Canadian mountaineering magazine once dubbed him “The Toddfather” – a nickname that stuck for the rest of his life. Todd worked alongside and guided expeditions involving some of the greatest names in mountaineering history, including Jerzy Kukuczka, Anatoli Boukreev, and Scott Fischer. His deep experience and pragmatic leadership style earned him respect from professionals and amateurs alike.

For Todd, Nepal was more than a climbing destination – it was home.

“Nepal will not forget his contributions to Himalayan mountaineering, and his legacy will remain forever,” said Iswari Paudel, Managing Director of Himalayan Guides Nepal Treks and Expeditions, and Todd’s long-time business partner.

Todd’s decades of work helped connect hundreds of foreign climbers to Nepal’s mountains, contributing significantly to the country’s adventure tourism and climbing infrastructure.

Todd’s family confirmed his death in a heartfelt statement shared on social media: “It is with great sadness that we have to announce the passing of my dad Henry Todd, aged 80, on 2 November 2025, in Kathmandu, Nepal. Henry (or ‘The Toddfather’) was a remarkable mountain guide, a loving father and grandfather, and a dear friend to many. He survived plane crashes, avalanches, and earthquakes – he seemed indestructible. His spirit and dedication to the mountains and the people around him will never be forgotten.”

A memorial service celebrating Todd’s life is being planned for early 2026, according to the family.

For more than 35 years, Henry Todd embodied the pioneering spirit of Himalayan climbing. From the wind-swept tents of Base Camp to the thin air of the 8,000ers, his name became synonymous with courage, resilience, and community in the world’s highest places.

He leaves behind an enduring legacy – one built not only on the summits reached but on the countless climbers whose dreams he helped realize.