Historic Free Ascent on Grandes Jorasses’ Hardest Route
Photo: Esteban Daligault
A major milestone has been reached on one of the Alps’ most revered faces. Esteban Daligault (24), Virgile Devin (25) and Simon Martinet (34) have achieved the first free ascent of the legendary Directe de l’Amitié on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses – a line so notoriously difficult that generations of elite alpinists had attempted and failed.
For decades, this 1,100-meter route has been considered the hardest line on one of Europe’s most challenging north faces. Now, for the first time since its creation, every meter has been climbed free.
A Route With a Fearsome Reputation
The Directe de l’Amitié is a mixed route leading to Point Whymper in the Mont Blanc massif. First climbed in 1974 by Yannick Seigneur, Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, and Marc Galy, the ascent took 20 days and unfolded under brutal conditions.
The route involves:
- Rock difficulties up to grade VII
- Mixed climbing up to M7
- Technical aid sections (A2)
- A famously overhanging A3 crux pitch
Because of its complexity and the tiny number of ascents, the line has held near-mythical status among alpinists.
A Challenge Even Legends Couldn’t Free
In 2022, elite alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines – the newly awarded Piolet d’Or winner -attempted the route as part of their “North Face Trilogy.”
Along with Seb Ratel, they freed all the A2 sections (upgrading them to M8), but they would not try to free the A3 crux.
Védrines described that infamous pitch on Instagram:
“It’s an extremely overhanging section that starts on a wide, hollow-sounding flake. The rest of the route is never easy and very unpleasant, free climbing at least grade 8 with climbing shoes, if not harder.”
This assessment only solidified the line’s reputation as the hardest on the face.
Photo: Esteban Daligault
Three Underdogs Step In – And Make History
According to their Instagram posts, Daligault, Devin, and Martinet left Chamonix on foot on November 16, 2025, heading toward what they called “the rock ’n’ roll legacy of the pioneers.”
Their motivation?
A bit of humor – and pizza.
“We knew we were in for a wild climb. But one thought made us smile: The pizza was practically waiting behind the wall. Simple as that,” the trio joked on Instagram.
From the very start, they engaged with a line that demanded full commitment.
“We warmed up on 55° sections and then moved on to the great mixed pitches – technically demanding and very challenging,” Daligault wrote.
Progress soon slowed, and they spent their first bivouac on the wall. The face was so steep that, as Daligault said:
“It was so steep that we [Daligault and Devin] had to explain to Simon how to relieve ourselves while hanging in the harness.”
Breaking Through the Hardest Pitches
The next day brought renewed tension – the major difficulties, including the A3 crux, were still above them. But then came a breakthrough:
Devin onsighted the first M8 pitch, instantly lifting team morale.
The team continued upward, entering increasingly steep and sandy terrain.
Daligault described the moment they reached the decisive crux:
“We reach the crux. And hesitate: climbing shoes or dry tooling? The rock still has that ‘Sahara dune’ charm.”
With momentum building, Devin – the team’s ice specialist – made a bold call.
“Virgile, completely euphoric, announces: ‘I’ll give it a go right away!’ He puts on his climbing shoes anyway […] and masters the pitch with casual confidence.”
The team rated the previous A3 aid pitch M9+ after freeing it – an extraordinary difficulty for such a committing alpine route.
As darkness fell, Daligault wrote:
“When he reaches the belay, a shout of jubilation echoes through the north face. Night has fallen. Perfect timing: pizza is now within reach.”
A Summit Won in the Dark
On the third day, the trio continued through the remaining mixed terrain and topped out on the narrow summit ridge after dark.
A historic moment:
The first free ascent of the Directe de l’Amitié.
What was once considered nearly impossible had finally been done.