Nepali Team Makes Winter First Ascents of Chhuama Peaks
A Nepali-led expedition has completed the first official winter ascents of two previously unclimbed Himalayan peaks, Chhuama II (6,325 m) and Chhuama I (6,366 m) in the remote Upper Mustang region of Nepal. The climbs, carried out in pure alpine style, mark a rare and significant achievement in modern Himalayan exploratory mountaineering.
The expedition, organised by Seven Summit Treks (SST), reached both summits on December 21, completing a summit-to-summit traverse between the two peaks. The traverse covered approximately 1,000 metres of technical ridge terrain, accomplished without fixed ropes or high-altitude camps – an approach seldom seen in winter conditions in the Himalaya.
Photo Courtesy: SST
A Rare Winter Alpine Traverse
According to Seven Summit Treks, the team ascended Chhuama II via its southeast face, then traversed westward along the connecting ridge to Chhuama I, before descending via the south ridge of Chhuama I. The entire climb was completed in alpine style, relying on speed, self-sufficiency, and on-the-spot decision-making.
“The team reached the summit of Chhuama II at 8:45 am, and later summited Chhuama I at 10:59 am on the same day,” said Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Expedition Director at Seven Summit Treks.
Winter ascents of virgin peaks in alpine style remain extremely rare in Nepal, where most exploratory climbing historically takes place in spring or autumn. The successful traverse highlights both technical competence and careful risk management under cold-season conditions.
Expedition Team
The summit team consisted of experienced Nepali guides and climbers:
- Jenjen Lama – Mountain Guide & Expedition Leader (Summiter)
- Pasang Rinzee Sherpa – Mountain Guide & High-Altitude Photographer/Videographer (Summiter)
- Ashish Gurung – IFMGA Mountain Guide (Summiter)
Support roles were provided by:
- Ashok Nepal – Logistics / Base Camp Support
- Anish Dahal – Expedition Leader
The expedition was officially organised by Seven Summit Treks, with technical gear support from Pelliot Nepal.
Photo Courtesy: SST
A Milestone for Nepali Exploratory Mountaineering
The Chhuama expedition marked Seven Summit Treks’ first dedicated winter exploratory mission on unclimbed peaks, forming part of the company’s long-term strategy to promote sustainable, professional exploration beyond commercial 8,000-metre expeditions.
“This project marks SST’s first dedicated winter exploratory expedition on unclimbed peaks, setting a foundation for similar endeavors in the years ahead,” said Chhang Dawa Sherpa. “This achievement exhibits our growing focus on exploratory mountaineering, respect for alpine-style climbs, and responsible development of unclimbed peaks in Nepal.”
National Recognition
The achievement has received formal recognition from both the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA).
In its statement, the NMA praised the expedition for its “valuable contribution to the advancement of Nepal’s mountaineering and adventure tourism,” emphasizing the importance of first ascents conducted in alpine style.
The NNMGA highlighted the climb as a strong example of professional guiding standards, sound alpine judgment, and high-level winter exploration, underscoring the growing leadership of Nepali guides in first ascents and technically demanding Himalayan expeditions.
Expanding the Frontiers
The first ascents of Chhuama I and II reinforce Nepal’s evolving role in global mountaineering – not only as a destination for commercial expeditions, but as a frontier for serious exploratory climbing increasingly led by Nepali mountaineers themselves.
In an era where true first ascents are becoming increasingly rare, especially in winter and alpine style, the Chhuama traverse stands out as a meaningful contribution to Himalayan exploration.
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