New Recovery Attempt on Winter Makalu After Tragedy
After the tragic winter ascent of Mount Makalu that claimed the life of Phurba Ongel Sherpa and left Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali missing, recovery teams are preparing a new attempt to locate and retrieve both climbers.

Photo Courtesy: Makalu Adventure
With forecasts indicating lighter winds later this week, the recovery team on Makalu has readied a second attempt to recover Phurba Ongel Sherpa’s body and search for Abolfazl Gozali, who remains unaccounted for near Camp IV.
In the initial days after the summit push, teams were forced back by harsh conditions; recent attempts could not reach the critical zones due to high winds and low temperatures near Camp III, leaving no trace of the missing Iranian climber.

File image of Phurba Ongel Sherpa. Photo: Pioneer Adventure
Makalu Adventure, the outfitter organising the expedition, confirmed that additional food, oxygen cylinders, and fuel have been flown to base camp in preparation for renewed efforts once the weather window opens.
A voluntary search and recovery team from 8K Expeditions, composed of experienced Sherpa rescuers, has joined the effort. Representatives from 8K Expeditions confirmed mobilisation of the team to assist in locating Abolfazl and attempting to retrieve the body of Phurba Ongel from near Camp III.
Makalu Adventure said it remains in close communication with Phurba Ongel’s family and is coordinating with the Iranian Embassy, although communication challenges persist due to international logistical constraints.
The renewed search comes after the earlier tragedy during the descent from Makalu’s summit, where Phurba Ongel Sherpa fell on a high plateau near 7,500 metres, and Abolfazl Gozali was last seen crossing the same area before vanishing.
Recovery teams are currently stationed at Base Camp, awaiting a safe weather window – particularly a drop in winds – That would allow them to push higher on the mountain and continue their search operation. Officials emphasise that weather conditions at extreme altitude will dictate the pace and feasibility of the next attempt.
This update reflects the situation as operations continue on Makalu. We will provide further updates as more information becomes available.
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