Alone on Denali: Balin Miller Solos the Legendary Slovak Direct

When most climbers dream of summiting Denali, they think of the West Buttress – long, cold, and serious in its own right. But for those pushing the limits of modern alpinism, there’s another route on the mountain that carries near-mythical status: the Slovak Direct. And now, that route has a new chapter in its history.

Balin Miller, an American alpinist, has completed a rare solo ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali. Not only is this a bold personal achievement, but it also marks a major moment in U.S. mountaineering: he is the first American to ever solo this route.

The Slovak Direct climbs more than 9,000 vertical feet up Denali’s remote and dangerous south face. It was first established in 1984 by a team of Slovak climbers in a 10-day effort, and since then, it’s remained one of the most difficult, technical, and intimidating lines on the mountain. The route demands everything: thin ice, mixed rock and snow, crevassed glaciers, and long stretches of vertical exposure – all in Alaska’s unpredictable weather.

Farther east, in the high valleys of Shimshal, the French alpinist Elias Millerioux has set up camp on the Momhil Glacier. Millerioux, a Piolet d’Or winner, has not publicly disclosed his goal, but his presence is telling. The area – home to peaks like Karun Koh and Shispare – is known for its complex topography and history of first ascents. Millerioux has been here before. His return signals unfinished business and quiet ambition.

Fewer than ten people in the world have ever soloed this line. That number alone speaks volumes.

Miller made his ascent in just three days, a fast-and-light push that left no room for error. Alone on the face, he carried all his gear, made all his decisions, and bore full responsibility for every step. Soloing a route like this isn’t just physically demanding – it’s mentally punishing. There are no second chances.

On Instagram, he shared raw footage from the climb, revealing the exposed ledges, brutal weather, and sheer scale of the face. It’s a rare glimpse into what it takes to climb at this level, alone, in one of the harshest environments on Earth.

For the climbing community, ascents like this are inspiring – and humbling. They push the edge of what’s possible and remind us of the raw power and beauty of high mountains. Balin Miller’s solo of the Slovak Direct will be remembered not just as a major personal feat, but as one of the boldest climbs on Denali in recent years.