Connor Herson Frees El Capitan’s Triple Direct
In a stunning new achievement on one of Yosemite’s most iconic walls, Connor Herson has made the first free ascent of Triple Direct on El Capitan – a legendary 30-pitch route first established by Jim Bridwell and Kim Schmitz in 1969. Originally graded 5.9 A2 as an aid route, Triple Direct is a bold linkup that combines the Salathé Wall, Muir Wall, and The Nose, rising straight up the center of El Capitan.Herson freed the entire route over three days, describing it as a mix of 5.12 and 5.13 pitches, several of which are shared with the neighboring Muir Wall. The climb marks a milestone not just for Yosemite free climbing, but for Herson’s personal journey on the granite monolith that has defined his career.
A Long-Term Dream Finally Realized
“Although it’s just a linkup – effectively a much harder start to The Nose, with Changing Corners still the crux – this climb has been on my mind more than most other Valley climbs,” Herson shared on Instagram. The ascent didn’t come easy. In fall 2019, Herson came agonizingly close to freeing the route – twice – before falling on an “easy” exit move from the Changing Corners pitch. Then came three lost Yosemite seasons, delayed by the pandemic, wildfires, and school. “Triple Direct fell to the backburner,” he said, “but I never forgot about it. I knew I had to return.”
Relearning the Wall
Returning in 2025 was a humbling process. “Coming back to Changing Corners was intimidating,” Herson wrote. “It was going to be an entirely different pitch – I’m about six inches taller now and no longer have a kid’s build. I had to re-learn it completely, climbing no move the same way as when I was younger.” After weeks of preparation, Herson finally linked the crux sequence together on a three-day push, sending the full route from ground to summit. “Certain sections felt easier, others harder,” he added. “But finishing Triple Direct this season means a lot to me.”
A Growing Yosemite Legacy
At just 21, Connor Herson has already built a climbing résumé that most professionals could only dream of. He first made headlines in 2018, at age 15, for freeing The Nose (5.14–) – becoming the youngest climber ever to do so. In 2024, he teamed up with Tommy Caldwell to free The Heart Route, another of El Capitan’s proud testpieces. His free ascent of Triple Direct solidifies him as one of the leading voices in the new generation of Yosemite climbers pushing traditional free climbing to its limits.
Beyond El Capitan: Herson’s Expanding Frontier
Herson’s achievements extend far beyond Yosemite. In the U.S. and Canada, he has built an unprecedented tick list of cutting-edge trad climbs, including:
- Stranger Than Fiction (5.14–)
- Meltdown (5.14c)
- Magic Line (5.14c)
- Blackbeard’s Tears (5.14c)
- Cobra Crack (5.14b)
- Crack of Destiny (5.14b)
During his 2024 trip to Squamish, he made first ascents of the striking crack The Shark (5.14b) and one of Canada’s hardest sport climbs, Midnight Way (5.15a).
In 2022, Herson also completed the first all-gear ascent of Carlo Traversi’s Empath (5.14d) -an audacious blend of sport and trad ethics that reflects his unique vision for climbing.
The Next Chapter
With the first free ascent of Triple Direct, Herson adds a new benchmark to El Capitan’s long and storied history. What began as a bold aid line in the 1960s has now become a modern free-climbing masterpiece – one that connects Yosemite’s past and future in a single continuous line.
And for Herson, it’s clear: this is only the beginning.