Denis Urubko Plans New Route on Nanga Parbat

Veteran alpinist Denis Urubko is back in the Himalayas with his partner Maria Cardell, preparing for a daring alpine-style ascent of Nanga Parbat’s Diamir Face (8,126m). The duo is currently acclimatizing on smaller peaks near Skardu, Pakistan, before heading to attempt a new route on one of the most challenging faces in the Karakoram.

Rather than climbing directly on Nanga Parbat for acclimatization, Urubko prefers training on mid-altitude peaks to maintain strength and fitness. In an interview with Mountain.ru, he said:

“The climber gains altitude step by step but becomes weaker. Intense hikes or ascents with large altitude gain keep the muscles in good shape.”

Since arriving last weekend, the pair have already summited a 4,560m peak as part of their acclimatization phase.

This marks Urubko’s first return to serious high-altitude climbing since suffering frostbite on Gasherbrum I in winter 2023. The climb is a deeply personal project – one he’s willing to attempt solo if needed.

“If Masha [Maria Cardell] can’t keep up, I’ll try it solo,” he stated in an email shared with Mountain.ru.

Cardell, who joined later due to family obligations, is partially acclimatized thanks to her winter work as a ski patroller in Spain’s Sierra Nevada.

The Diamir Face is massive rising from 4,900m to 8,126m – with major avalanche risks in certain sections. Urubko is known for his bold, minimalist ascents and has long had this line in mind.

Meanwhile, on Spantik (7,027m), a French-Pakistani team led by Mathieu Maynadier has reached base camp after a tough glacier approach. The expedition includes climbers Muizz Ud Din, Loury Lag, videographer Nathanael Sapey-Triomphe, and drone operator Ozair Khan.

With several small, fast teams in Pakistan this season, the stage is set for potential historic climbs in pure alpine style.

Source: ExplorersWeb and Mountain.ru