A lone mountaineer in full high-altitude gear climbs a steep, snow-covered ridge under a deep blue sky. The bright sun dominates the upper right, creating intense lens flares and starburst effects, while a fixed rope trails down the slope behind the climber, emphasizing the extreme exposure and altitude.

First Ascent of Changla Khang West in Western Nepal

Anano Atabegashvili | December 16, 2025
News
A lone mountaineer in full high-altitude gear climbs a steep, snow-covered ridge under a deep blue sky. The bright sun dominates the upper right, creating intense lens flares and starburst effects, while a fixed rope trails down the slope behind the climber, emphasizing the extreme exposure and altitude.

On the summit ridge. Photo: Benjamin Lieber

Remote western Nepal continues to offer rare opportunities for small, exploratory teams. On November 3, American alpinists Benjamin Lieber and Alex Hansen completed the first ascent of Changla Khang West (6,233m), a little-known peak near the Tibetan border, as reported by ExplorersWeb.

Lieber said the expedition aligned perfectly with their exploratory goals: traveling to an unfamiliar region, surveying the surrounding mountains, and choosing an objective based on what they found.

Although Lieber and Hansen have climbed together in Alaska, this marked their first partnership in the Himalaya. Lieber brings extensive experience in the region, having guided on several 8,000-meter peaks.

The team trekked to the Lachama Glacier, where they established Base Camp. Over the following 10 days, they scouted nearby valleys in search of potential objectives. Lieber explained that they chose the area after researching previous expeditions, including visits by Paul Ramsden and Mick Fowler. The British climbers’ 2015 Piolet d’Or–winning ascent on the North Face of Gave Ding helped highlight the region’s potential. However, persistent bad weather complicated their plans. Storms and high winds disrupted reconnaissance and cost them nearly a week. With time running short, they turned their focus to Changla Khang West, a peak that had reportedly been attempted at least twice before, but never successfully climbed.

Lieber and Hansen reached the summit in a single day, climbing a 1,200m route via the southwest ridge. The line was graded WI4, M4.

Lieber described the ascent as beginning with scrambly buttresses and steep snow gullies, leading onto a spectacular snow and ice ridge that extended almost to the summit. The final section was guarded by several rock bands.

Inside one chimney, the team found perfect water ice, easing what could have been a difficult passage. After a tense exit from the chimney, they reached the summit shortly afterward.

From the top, the climbers were rewarded with expansive views across Nepal, India, and Tibet, including iconic peaks such as Nanda Devi and Mount Kailash.