Historic Traverse of Peru’s Nevado Yerupaja

On August 4-9, Marc Toralles, Bru Busom, and Ruben Sanmartin opened a difficult alpine-style route on 6,634m Yerupaja, Peru’s second-highest mountain. The Spaniards’ 3,000m line went up the east face and east ridge, and culminated in the first traverse of the mountain. They then descended via the south ridge. Toralles, Busom, and Sanmartin rated the climb as 6c+, M6+, and 95º. Starting on the east face, they navigated a steep limestone wall prone to falling rock and ice. After that, they reached the narrow and exposed east ridge bristling with those characteristic and unstable ice “mushrooms.”

The sharp east ridge of Yerupaja. Photo: Marc Toralles

The Challenge of Yerupaja

Rising steeply above turquoise lakes and glacial valleys, Yerupajá is widely considered one of the most difficult peaks in the Andes. Its steep, knife-edge ridges, constant exposure, and unstable conditions have earned it a fearsome reputation. Yerupaja is the highest peak in the Cordillera Huayhuash range, first surveyed in 1927 by the American Geographic Society expedition, according to the American Alpine Journal. The mountain, nicknamed The Butcher for its sharp ridges and extreme difficulty, has a sparse but storied climbing history due to its remote access, dangerous glaciers, and technical demands. Despite its stature, it is one of the least climbed peaks in the Andes.

The mountain has a long history of legendary ascents, but until now, no one had completed a full traverse across its towering 3 km summit ridge, a challenge of both endurance and technical mastery

The Route

The ridge offered no escape and forced the team to commit fully to reaching the summit in order to descend safely. They spent four days battling poor visibility and precarious snow conditions. Their descent via the south ridge was equally demanding, requiring careful rappels through complex terrain. The team also summited a lower sub-summit, thus completing a traverse never before documented. They described this as their most committing climb, with survival hinging on reaching the top, due to the lack of options for retreat. The 2025 ascent by Toralles, Busom, and Sanmartin stands out for linking the east face and ridge to the summit, thus completing a full traverse. But despite exceptional climbs like this one, Yerupaja remains one of the Andes’ most challenging peaks.

A Milestone Achievement

Upon completing the traverse, the team not only stood atop one of the Andes’ most formidable summits but also etched their names into the history of Peruvian mountaineering. The achievement marks the first time the complete ridge has been successfully climbed and descended, opening a new chapter in the exploration of this remote and beautiful range.

Legacy and Significance

Yerupaja’s traverse will undoubtedly be remembered as a benchmark ascent in South America. While Everest and K2 often dominate global headlines, the technical and aesthetic challenges of the Andes remain a proving ground for some of the world’s strongest alpinists. This traverse underlines the continuing spirit of exploration: pushing boundaries not only in terms of altitude, but also in style, commitment, and respect for the mountain environment.




Source: Exlorersweb