Georgians Blaze New Route on 7,100m Koh-e Langar

Georgian alpinism celebrates another remarkable achievement as Giorgi Tepnadze and Bakar Gelashvili successfully completed a technically demanding new route on Koh-e Langar (7134 m, Inrich: 7125) in Pakistan’s remote Hindu Kush region. The expedition, lasting one month, was a tribute to their late teammate Archil Badriashvili, who tragically died last year after being struck by lightning in the Caucasus.

The Georgian team’s journey combined high-altitude skill, endurance, and careful acclimatization. Before tackling Koh-e Langar, Tepnadze and Gelashvili made two other significant ascents:

Mudrichili (6125 m) – First Ascent, 13 August 2025

A beautiful, unclimbed peak of the Hindu Kush. The team completed the 5th category Caucasian-grade route over six days, starting from Zondrangram (2620 m) and moving through Base Camp, ABC, Camp 1, Camp 2, and finally summiting at 6127 m before descending back to Duru (3370 m).

Languta-e-Barfi (6833 m) – New Route, 23 August 2025

Also known as “The Bride of the Hindu Kush,” this peak holds special significance for the Georgian climbers. Tepnadze, Gelashvili, and the late Archil Badriashvili had previously achieved the first ascent from the Pakistani side in 2021. Their 2025 expedition followed a new 5th category route, achieving summit success in four days with a bivouac on the ridge at 5900 m.

Finally, on 2 September 2025, Tepnadze and Gelashvili stood atop Koh-e Langar, completing a new and challenging route between two major peaks – Languta-e-Barfi and Saraghrar Northwest (7,300 m), a climb for which the Georgian trio had earned the Piolet d’Or in 2022. The ascent was classified as 6th category, covering a vertical gain of 2334 meters over four days from ABC to the final summit.

The expedition showcased an extraordinary pace and ambition: three high-altitude summits achieved in just ten-day intervals. The climbers described the Hindu Kush as “awesome,” a remote region that remains largely unexplored by the global mountaineering community.

The Georgian team’s achievement marks a proud moment in the history of Georgian alpinism, adding significant first ascents and new routes to the world climbing map. Summiters Club and the broader mountaineering community celebrate this accomplishment, wishing the climbers continued success and safe returns on future expeditions.

Expedition Highlights:

• Mudrichili, 6127 m -1st ascent, 5th category, six-day climb
  
  
• Languta-e-Barfi, 6833 m -New route, 5th category, four-day climb
  
  
• Koh-e Langar, 7134 m – New route, 6th category, four-day climb

The expedition not only demonstrated the Georgians’ technical expertise but also honored the memory of Archil Badriashvili, keeping his spirit alive in the high mountains he loved.