Young Japanese Team to Attempt Unclimbed Nepal Peak

A team of young Japanese climbers, led by seasoned mountaineer Yasuhiro Hanatani, is preparing to attempt the first ascent of Bijora Hiunchuli (6,111m) in western Nepal. This endeavor is part of the 2025 Himalaya Camp, an initiative by the Japan Alpine Club (JAC) aimed at passing on the club’s strong mountaineering culture to future generations.

Expedition Overview

The Himalaya Camp selects individuals in their 20s and 30s with little or no experience in overseas mountaineering. Over several months, participants undergo rigorous training, culminating in a Himalayan expedition to an unclimbed 6,000-meter peak. For 2025, the team has chosen Bijora Hiunchuli, a peak with limited information available, adding an exploratory element to their mission.

Route and Approach

The team plans to approach the peak from Pele village, heading towards the Bhot Khola glacier junction. Notably, the 2024 Himalaya Camp team had previously explored this area, suggesting Bijora Hiunchuli as a potential target. The 2025 team aims to ascend the northwest ridge in alpine style, without the use of fixed ropes or porters, adhering to the principles of minimal environmental impact and self-sufficiency.

Team Composition

The expedition is led by Yasuhiro Hanatani, a veteran climber with notable achievements, including the first ascent of Ratna Chuli (7,035m) in 1996 and the South Pillar of Kyashal (6,770m) in 2013, for which he received a Piolet d’Or. He will be joined by:

Akiyoshi Tanaka

Masatake Higa

Masayuki Takenaka

Sota Kodama

Mei Okajima

Historical Context

Bijora Hiunchuli is a subsidiary summit on the northwest ridge of Kasi Dalpha (6,386m). In 2013, French climber Paulo Grobel attempted the peak via the north-northwest ridge in alpine style but was unsuccessful. His report described the route as offering an elegant ascent to the summit, indicating its potential for future climbs.

Significance

This expedition not only represents a significant mountaineering challenge but also embodies the spirit of exploration and the transmission of mountaineering culture to the next generation. The Himalaya Camp initiative continues to inspire young climbers to engage with the mountains, fostering a deep appreciation for the natural world and the values of perseverance and teamwork.