Kanchenjunga Turns Deadly: One Climber Lost, Another Fighting to Survive

File image of Margareta Morin. Photo: The Himalayan Times

Tragedy and resilience unfolded high on Mt. Kanchenjunga this past week, as the spring climbing season brought both triumph and sorrow to the world’s third-highest peak.

On May 10, French climber Margareta Morin, 63, tragically lost her life at around 7,800 meters while attempting her first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak. in a report by The Himalayan Times, expedition organizer Yogendra Tamang of Peak 15 Adventure, confirmed that Morin was attempting her first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak when she became ill at approximately 7,800 meters during her climb. Severe weather conditions prevented a rescue operation, and she sadly passed away at that altitude. Efforts are currently underway to recover her body, coordinated with her insurance company and the French Embassy in Kathmandu . Morin became ill during her climb and could not be rescued due to deteriorating weather conditions.

In the same expedition, British mountaineer Adrian Michael Hayes faced a life-threatening situation after successfully summiting Kanchenjunga. After successfully reaching the 8,586-meter peak, Hayes began to suffer from severe altitude sickness, a condition that can be life-threatening at such elevations. Sherpa climbers assisted him down to Camp IV, where he currently remains, awaiting evacuation as soon as weather conditions permit. Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Expedition Director at Seven Summit Treks, confirmed Hayes’s condition and the ongoing rescue efforts. He stated, “Once the weather allows, we will evacuate him from the lower camps”. As of now, there have been no official updates regarding Hayes’s condition or the timing of his evacuation. The mountaineering community and his supporters worldwide await further news, hoping for his safe return from the formidable slopes of Kanchenjunga.

The expedition team comprised 13 members, including climbers from Kosovo, Iran, the UAE, and Nepal. Ten of them, including Hayes, reached the 8,500-meter summit on May 10 after a grueling 20-hour push from Camp IV. This marked the first successful summit of Kanchenjunga for the 2025 season.

Kanchenjunga is known for its high fatality rate among the 8,000-meter peaks, with over 50 climbers having lost their lives on its slopes . The mountain’s remote location and challenging conditions continue to test the limits of human endurance and the spirit of mountaineering.

Our thoughts are with the families of those affected by these events.