Historic First Free Ascent of Lafaille Route, Drus

In an exclusive Summiters Club interview, French climber Léo Billon (GMHM) discussed with us his and Enzo Oddo’s historic achievement: completing the first full free ascent of the Lafaille route on the west face of the Drus. Their climb marks a milestone in alpine free climbing, showcasing technical mastery, endurance, and bold strategy over 1,000 meters of varied and challenging terrain.

The topo of ‘Voie Lafaille’, west face of Les Drus, Photo: Léo Billon

French alpinists Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have achieved the first full free ascent of the Lafaille route on the west face of the Drus, one of the Mont Blanc massif’s most iconic and challenging walls. Originally climbed in aid style by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 2001, the route had never before been freed.

This year’s ascent was the result of careful planning and multiple visits. “After a one-day attempt last summer, Enzo and I returned three times this season: June 28–29, July 10–12, and finally August 5–7,” Billon explained. “During the final push, we managed to free all the hard pitches. To save time, we skipped the first five pitches and started via the lower section of the American Direct.”

The route stretches 1,000 meters with 20 technical pitches, plus about 300 meters of easier climbing to reach the summit. The crux pitch, rated 8b+, is a striking test of strength, technique, and mental focus. Billon described the route as “sustained and incredibly varied, with everything from delicate slabs to technical cracks, overhanging walls, and a striking prow,” adding that the rock quality was “exceptional.”

Climbing conditions were cold but manageable. “On the final day, we even wore down pants on the wall,” Billon said. “On the crux pitch, a key hold near the end of a delicate move was wet, but fortunately neither of us fell there.”

The emotional intensity of the climb was clear. “The most emotional moment was definitely the relief of sending the crux pitch on my fifth attempt on the second day. My skin was raw, Enzo had already sent it the day before, and we needed to keep moving up the wall. It felt like my last chance – and it worked. Our final bivouac at the base of the wall was also a highlight. With the hard climbing behind us, we could finally savor the moment in peace,” Billon reflected.

Les Drus Mont Blanc, Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo

Looking ahead, Billon sees the ascent as opening new possibilities for alpine free climbing: “This ascent opens the door to new possibilities – not just on the Drus, but in the broader search for hard free climbs on alpine summits.”

With their groundbreaking free ascent, Billon and Oddo have pushed the limits of what’s possible on one of the massif’s most storied walls, creating a new benchmark for future climbers.