A rock climber ascends a steep granite cliff, gripping the rock face with both hands and feet. The climber is secured with an orange rope and wears a black top, blue shorts, and a chalk bag. Below, a group of people and camping gear are visible at the base of the cliff, surrounded by green vegetation and yellow lichen on the rocks. The scene is captured from an overhead perspective, highlighting the height and rugged terrain.

first female ascent of Spirit Quest (5.14d)

Anano Atabegashvili | October 17, 2025
News
A rock climber ascends a steep granite cliff, gripping the rock face with both hands and feet. The climber is secured with an orange rope and wears a black top, blue shorts, and a chalk bag. Below, a group of people and camping gear are visible at the base of the cliff, surrounded by green vegetation and yellow lichen on the rocks. The scene is captured from an overhead perspective, highlighting the height and rugged terrain.

Photo: don.mason.photo

American climber Quinn Mason has made history with the first female ascent of Spirit Quest (5.14d), one of Canada’s most difficult sport climbs, located on the breathtaking Paradise Wall in Squamish’s Paradise Valley. Mason completed the route on October 9, marking a defining moment in her career and for women’s sport climbing.

Originally bolted by Tom Wright in 2016, Spirit Quest is a direct start variation of his route Spirit of the West (5.14a). The line is technical, relentless, and demanding, linking directly into the crux of Spirit of the West without a single rest. The first ascent was completed by Mike Foley in 2021, and it quickly earned a reputation as one of the hardest sport routes in the country.

“I was immediately struck by the pristine granite shield with its snaking features and brilliant green lichen,” Mason wrote on Instagram.

Mason’s connection to Paradise Wall began in 2023 when she first climbed Queen Bee (5.13c), which left a lasting impression. The following season, she returned and sent Spirit of the West (5.14a) after four trips to the wall. Though she didn’t try Spirit Quest that year, it stayed with her – “All winter long I dreamt about the route as if I knew the moves and was rehearsing them in my head.”

When Mason finally began working on the climb in August 2025, her first attempt left her discouraged, but she quickly found her rhythm. By the fourth session, she believed a send was possible. After fine-tuning every sequence and waiting patiently through weeks of Squamish rain, she returned and sent the route from bottom to chains, skipping no sections.

This was Mason’s first climb at the 5.14d grade, skipping 5.14b and 5.14c altogether. In 2025, she’s already sent five 5.13d’s and three 5.14a’s, demonstrating both power and precision.

Mason is also a World Cup competitor, having represented the U.S. at events in Salt Lake City, Chamonix, and Madrid, and was crowned USA Lead National Champion in 2021.

Her send of Spirit Quest stands as a new milestone – not just for her personal journey, but for women’s climbing as a whole.