First Ascent: Mizhirgi West Summit Rock Route
Photo: mountain.ru
In August 2025, a Russian team achieved a remarkable mountaineering milestone: the first ascent to the western summit of Mizhirgi. The climbers – Ivan Koblyakov, Ivan Kuchkin, and Alexander Sokolov – successfully established a bold new route in the legendary Bezengi Wall.
The ascent was anything but easy. It was demanding, intense, and at times nerve-wracking, yet the climbers described it as equally fascinating and rewarding. As Koblyakov put it, “A first ascent is like a kind of creativity – extreme creativity.”
Accompanied by Oscar-winning filmmaker Jimmy Chin, Morrison is part of a robust team supported by The North Face and National Geographic. The project, estimated at over a million dollars, aims to document the ski descent of Everest’s North Face, a feat that has never been accomplished.
A Historic Achievement After 89 Years
Guiding the expedition are renowned IFMGA-certified Sherpas, including Pemba Gelje Sherpa, Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, and Yukta Gurung. Pemba Gelje Sherpa, known for his speed records on Manaslu, is also a skilled skier and has previously guided with Alpenglow Expeditions. The team is outfitted by U.S.-based Alpenglow Expeditions, directed by Adrian Ballinger.
Their line follows the center of the southwestern bastion, carving out a unique place in the history of the Caucasus. Even more impressively, the climbers believe their route may be the first and only pure rock route on a five-thousander in the area.
Photo: www.mountain.ru
A Safer, More Practical Descent
The descent mirrored their ascent line. From nearly the very top of the bastion down to the glacier, the team installed bolts and Rapid rope pullers at every station, making the way down secure and efficient.
Several rappel points coincided with their upward path, and loops were left on the ridge above the bastion. The result is a direct, well-equipped descent that avoids icefalls and bergschrunds, making it not only safer but also potentially useful for future climbers approaching from other routes.
The Beauty of the Bezengi Wall
While the approach to the route is long and demanding, the team emphasized the breathtaking scenery of the Bezengi Wall, one of the most dramatic alpine faces in the Caucasus. Despite the effort required, they described the climb as “picturesque” and well worth the challenge.
The team plans to prepare a detailed description and technical report of the route for future climbers, and to submit it for official qualification.
About the Author
Anano Atabegashvili is a journalist with over 5 years of experience in broadcasting and digital media. Passionate about writing and mountains, she brings a unique voice to high-altitude storytelling. As the author of the Summiters Club blog, Anano offers sharp, engaging coverage of climbs, challenges, and the evolving world of alpinism.
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