Three climbers in colorful gear sit on a snowy mountain peak, holding signs. The left climber in an orange suit holds a sign reading "Patrasi Peak Expedition 6450M." The middle climber in a yellow and black jacket holds a sign with the Mountain Foundation Seven Summits Treks logo. The right climber in a blue suit holds a sign reading "Access the inaccessible Petzl." Snow-covered mountains and a clear sky are in the background.

Nepali Climbers Nominated for 2025 Piolets d’Or

Anano Atabegashvili | October 15, 2025
News
Three climbers in colorful gear sit on a snowy mountain peak, holding signs. The left climber in an orange suit holds a sign reading "Patrasi Peak Expedition 6450M." The middle climber in a yellow and black jacket holds a sign with the Mountain Foundation Seven Summits Treks logo. The right climber in a blue suit holds a sign reading "Access the inaccessible Petzl." Snow-covered mountains and a clear sky are in the background.

Photo: Anja Petek

Successful first ascents of two virgin Himalayan peaks have earned four Nepali climbers nominations for the prestigious Piolets d’Or 2025, often called the Oscars of mountaineering.

Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa have been recognized for their first ascent of Patrasi I (6,450m) in the remote Kanjiroba Himal, while Pasang Kidar Sherpa from Rolwaling and Danika Gilbert of Colorado, USA, have been nominated for establishing a new alpine-style route on Beding Go (6,125m) in the Gaurishankar Range. The Piolets d’Or ceremony will take place from December 9-12, 2025, in San Martino di Castrozza, Italy.

Under their Light and Fast Project, Malla, Kami, and Rinzee climbed Patrasi I via the Northwest Ridge over Patrasi II, completing the ascent on June 12, 2024. They climbed alpine-style, without fixed ropes or additional support – a pure and self-sufficient approach. “It’s a proud moment for us,” said Pasang Rinzee Sherpa upon learning of the nomination. “This nomination stands as a testament to the strength, skill, and spirit of Nepali alpinism.”

The trio faced rough weather, heavy snowfall, and loose rock, making the ascent both technically demanding and dangerous. “Despite these obstacles, we persevered,” said Sherpa. “This kind of technical climbing brings the real joy of mountaineering.”

The expedition was supported by the Mount Everest Foundation (MEF), a UK-based organization that has funded more than 2,000 expeditions and scientific projects in high-altitude research since 1955.

All three climbers are highly experienced:

  • Vinayak Jaya Malla, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, has summited Everest five times and led expeditions on Lhotse, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam. He is also trained in Helicopter Long Line Rescue.

  • Pasang Kami Sherpa has summited Everest ten times.

  • Pasang Rinzee Sherpa, an IFMGA aspirant guide, has two Everest summits to his name.

On October 13, 2024, Pasang Kidar Sherpa and Danika Gilbert made a first ascent of the NW Ridge of Beding Go (6,125m), located on the Nepal-Tibet border, east of Gaurishankar (7,134m).

Pasang Kidar, the owner of Khangri Treks and one of just 14 IFMGA guides from Rolwaling Valley, and Gilbert, an experienced American alpinist, climbed alpine-style from a 5,100m high camp at the head of the Chhimugolche River.

Their climb began with a one-day approach from Beding village to base camp at 4,875m, on terrain previously used by climbers attempting Dolma Kang (6,332m). The route, though moderate in altitude, demanded technical precision and endurance.

The Piolets d’Or celebrates bold, lightweight, and ethical ascents that reflect the core values of modern alpinism – exploration, commitment, and respect for the mountains. Nepal’s growing representation at this global stage underscores the evolution of Nepali mountaineering beyond guiding, with climbers now being recognized for their own exploratory and technical achievements. As Pasang Rinzee expressed, “This nomination is not just for us – it’s for all Nepali climbers showing that we can lead the way in world alpinism.”