New Alpine Route Opened on Remote Peak in Peru’s Andes

In June 2025, climbers Diomedes Mojica and Wilder Alva Chinchay achieved a remarkable feat by establishing a new alpine route on the seldom-attempted Huandoy East (6,070 m) in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. This remote peak, part of the world’s highest tropical mountain range, had not seen a new ascent in recent years.

The Ascent

The duo completed their 480-meter route in alpine style, climbing the steep northeast face in just 18 hours – 11 hours up and 7 hours down. The route is graded MD+ with sections of 75°- 90° ice, M4/M5 mixed climbing, and UIAA 5+ rock. Their ascent was marked by technical challenges, including complex glacier terrain and steep ice sections, making it a significant achievement in alpine climbing.

Climbers’ Background

Wilder Alva Chinchay has now summited all four peaks of the Huandoy massif – North, South, East, and West – making him the first to do so. Diomedes Mojica, who also climbed Huascarán via a new route earlier in June, is currently training to become a mountain guide. Both climbers are recognized for their dedication and skill in high-altitude mountaineering.

Huandoy East: A Historical Perspective

Known as Tullparaju in Quechua, meaning “snowy fireplace,” Huandoy East was first ascended in 1932 by German climbers Erwin Schneider and Erwin Hein. Located near the picturesque Llanganuco Valley, it stands alongside other prominent peaks like Huascarán and Chopicalqui, making it a coveted objective for seasoned alpinists.

Conclusion

The successful establishment of this new route on Huandoy East underscores the ongoing allure and challenge of the Cordillera Blanca for alpine climbers. Mojica and Chinchay’s achievement adds a significant chapter to the mountain’s climbing history, inspiring future expeditions in this remote and rugged region.

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