Local Patagonian Climbers Repeat Rare Route on Fitz Roy
Left to right, Bauti Gregorini, Thomas Odell, and Pedro Odell on the summit of Fitz Roy, Photo: Gripped Magazine
A new generation of Patagonian climbers has achieved a rare repeat of Royal Flush, one of the most elusive and demanding routes on Fitz Roy’s East Face. The ascent was completed by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell, and Bauti Gregorini, all rising talents who grew up in the granite world of El Chaltén.
Royal Flush, first opened in 1995 by Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Jorg Gerschel, and Lutz Richter, climbs the longest and most vertical face of Fitz Roy, covering around 1,250m. Fewer than five teams have ever repeated the line.
The original team, halted 350m below the summit after Albert was injured by falling rock, did not complete the full route; that achievement came three years later with a second German ascent. To date, no one has managed to free-climb the entire line. The route’s hardest pitch was estimated at 5.12c (7c), freed by Tommy Caldwell, though excessive ice prevented him from freeing the entire route. Until a full free ascent is achieved, Royal Flush remains graded 7b A0.
Pedro Odell explained with Explorersweb that most of the 40 pitches can be free-climbed, though they involve sustained and highly vertical terrain at grades 6c–7a.
Water, Weather, and Rockfall Challenges
Pedro, Tomas, and Gregorini set out with the intention of freeing the route, but Royal Flush has a notoriously difficult characteristic: outside of very cold weather, water runs directly down one of the hardest pitches.
Upon reaching the eighth pitch, graded 7a, they found it soaked. Other key sections, including the crux, were also wet, forcing them to abandon their free-climbing hopes and prioritize completing the route.
The climbers also navigated recent rockfall damage. A large slab had detached from the upper route last March, changing some features. The first pitch – originally a chimney filled with climbable cracks – had partially collapsed.
Pedro noted that the chimney is now “large and hollow,” with loose rock inside, but still climbable and roughly graded 6c. Beyond that, the route offered excellent granite.
A Rare Weather Window
Like all lines on Fitz Roy’s East Face, success depends on a multi-day stretch of perfect weather. Small changes in conditions drastically affect the climb. The trio said the lower pitches were wetter than ideal, but the upper section was dry and clean — while excessive ice has turned back many previous teams.
A perfect weather window aligned with all three climbers’ schedules, making the ascent possible. Gregorini said he had spent “so many nights dreaming of this route,” especially since the East Face looks directly toward his hometown.
Children of Chaltén
Pedro, 22, and Tomas, 20, are among the first generation of climbers born in El Chaltén, founded only in 1985. Fitz Roy’s spires were literally their backyard.
Pedro climbed Aguja Guillaumet at age 13 with his father, Max Odell. At 17, he began climbing regularly with Tomas. Their achievements now include the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy (2022) and Cerro Torre (2023).
Pedro also opened a new route in 2022-El Zorro y la Rosa (5.11c C1, 600m) on Aguja St. Exupery-with Horacio Gratton and Esteban Degregori. He has since climbed with well-known alpinists such as Colin Haley and Thomas Huber.
Gregorini, also from Patagonia and living in El Chaltén, shares the same deep-rooted connection to these mountains.
All three work as guides in the region. They have explored the Cordillera Blanca, climbing the Italian route on Taulliraju (5,830m), and have rock-climbed in Europe, though they note it is always difficult to leave their home mountains during peak season.
“Climbing here is what most motivates us,” Pedro said.
Source: Explorersweb