Russian Climbers Aim for a Bold New Route on Manaslu

Photo: Mountain.ru

The Himalaya never stops calling the bold, and this autumn, it calls a team of Russian mountaineers with a reputation for daring and ingenuity. Andrey Vasiliev, Sergey Kondrashkin, and Vitaly Shipilov are preparing to attempt a completely new route along the southwest face of Manaslu, in a face described by legendary climber Ang Hami as:

“…a huge face of 3400m, very complex and difficult where it is necessary to find the way…”

This is no ordinary expedition. The southwest face of Manaslu remains largely unexplored, offering immense vertical relief, hidden challenges, and a true test of alpine skill.

For this trio, the project is part of a continuing journey of high-stakes climbs. In October 2019, Shipilov and Vasiliev, along with Ivan Osipov and Dmitry Rybalchenko, opened a new route on the west face of Kyajo Ri (6186 m), the impressive “Way of the Dragon” – a 950m climb graded ED2/3, 5c A3+ and mixed.

In 2023, they joined an expedition to Cho Oyu, attempting a new route via the 6,528m Lungsampa peak. Then, in 2024, they returned to Cho Oyu to tackle the first iteration of the difficult Russian route of 1991, climbing the SE-E edge of the 8000m giant to within three hours of the summit. Both attempts were heavy-style climbs – large teams, relay systems, and full equipment – demonstrating a mastery of the complex Russian-style approach.

Photo: Mountain.ru

Now, Manaslu presents an even more subtle challenge. Hami, reflecting on the 1981 Pierre Beghin expedition, noted that a light expedition with no heavy camps or supplemental oxygen could traverse this enormous 3400m face in about four weeks. The Russian team, seasoned in both heavy and alpine-style expeditions, will push the limits of strategy, skill, and endurance to explore this scarcely touched face.

The world will watch, wondering: can Vasiliev, Kondrashkin, and Shipilov open a new line in one of the most demanding and uncharted walls of the Himalaya? The stakes are high, the history compelling, and the promise of discovery irresistible.