Russians Attempt Ogre’s South Face After Route Change

update:

Expedition member Alexander Ryndyk has been evacuated from Pakistan due to illness. After carrying his condition for too long, he was forced to return to Moscow, where he continues recovery. Ryndyk shared that the sickness had drained too many of his physical resources, but emphasized that “the main thing is that I am alive, and I can always come back.” His climbing mates are not having an easy time either, but are determined to keep trying. 

Expedition Overview

Earlier this week, the team: comprising Alexander Parfenov, Alexey Sukharev, Ratmir Mukhametzyanov, Alexander (Sasha) Ryndyk, and drone operator Farit Nalimov – arrived at the base camp of Baintha Brakk in the central Karakoram. Their initial objective was to ascend the unclimbed north face, recognized as the most difficult and exposed side of the mountain.

However, upon arrival, the team encountered unexpected challenges. Cold and wet conditions led to Parfenov and Ryndyk developing fevers. Despite beginning antibiotic treatment, both climbers were deemed unfit for the demanding north face route. As a result, the team reassessed their plans.

 Photo: Anton Karnoup

New Route and Strategy

Opting not to abandon the expedition, the team devised an alternative strategy. Mukhametzyanov and Sukharev have initiated an ascent via the south face, a route visible from base camp and within radio communication range. While the specific line has not been confirmed, the duo intends to select the most straightforward path available, given their reduced manpower.

Despite the change in route, the south face presents its own set of formidable challenges. The Ogre is renowned for its combination of altitude, steep granite rock, ice-snow sections, and technical difficulty on all sides. The south face, in particular, has been summited only three times: first by Doug Scott and Chris Bonington in 1977, then by Thomas Huber, Urs Stocker, and Iwan Wolf in 2001, and most recently by Americans Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy in 2012.

Team Background and Experience

The Russian climbers are seasoned professionals with notable achievements. In 2022, Parfenov, Sukharev, and Mukhametzyanov were awarded the Russian version of the Piolet d’Or for their new route on Military Topographers Peak (6,873m) in the central Tien Shan.

Conclusion

While the change in route marks a significant shift in the expedition’s objectives, the team’s determination and adaptability underscore the spirit of high-altitude mountaineering. As they continue their ascent of the south face, the mountaineering community watches closely, offering support and admiration for their resilience and commitment.

Source: Explorersweb