Sanu Sherpa Summits Makalu in Rare Winter Ascent
Renowned Nepali mountaineer Sanu Sherpa, alongside Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali, has successfully summited Mount Makalu (8,485m), completing a rare winter ascent of the world’s fifth-highest peak.
According to Mohan Lamsal, founder of Makalu Adventure Pvt Ltd, the duo reached the summit at 10:27 am Nepal time on Thursday as part of the company’s Mount Makalu Winter Expedition 2026.
Photo Courtesy: Makalu Adventure
Meanwhile, four other Sherpa climbers from the expedition are still en route to the summit, Lamsal said. Another team member, Piyali Basak, was forced to turn back from Camp III due to health concerns and has since returned safely to Base Camp.
Winter ascents of Makalu are regarded as some of the most demanding undertakings in high-altitude mountaineering, due to extreme cold, strong winds, and technical difficulty. The mountain’s first winter ascent was achieved in February 2009 by Simone Moro of Italy and Denis Urubko of Kazakhstan, making this latest climb only the second confirmed winter ascent of the peak.
The successful summit achievement further strengthens Sanu Sherpa’s extraordinary mountaineering record. He has now climbed 8,000-metre peaks more than 40 times and has already completed all 14 of the world’s highest mountains twice.
With only Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, and Dhaulagiri remaining for a third completion, Sherpa is now edging closer to becoming the first climber in history to summit all 14 eight-thousanders three times.
Makalu Adventure described the summit as a historic achievement, confirming that the expedition team is now descending safely toward Base Camp.
Source: The Himalayan Times
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