Moro’s Comeback: Denali First, Manaslu Next
According to an interview with Lo Scarpone, conducted by journalist Monica Malfatti, veteran alpinist Simone Moro has fully recovered from a serious health scare earlier this year and is now preparing for a return to high-altitude climbing – with Denali in June and Manaslu in October.
Simone Moro, Photo: Oswald Rodrigo Pereira
A Full Recovery After a Life-Threatening Episode
Moro’s return follows a critical medical incident in January, when he suffered a heart attack caused by a blood clot.
Explaining the cause, Moro said:
“It wasn’t pathological, but an acute form of very high hematocrit, combined with severe dehydration at high altitude. This created a clot that blocked my coronary aorta.”
He reached the hospital just in time. After months of medical examinations and recovery, recent tests confirmed a strong comeback:
“The tests say I’m back in top form.”
The Plan: Denali First
Moro’s immediate goal is Denali, which he aims to climb in June to complete his long-standing Seven Summits project.
“I’d like to complete my Seven Summits crown; all I need is Denali.”
He described the climb as both a personal milestone and a test after months of reduced training:
“It will be a test to get back into the rhythm after slowing down compared to my usual standards.”
Return to Manaslu – But Different Strategy
After Denali, Moro plans to return to Manaslu in October – but with a new approach.
Unlike his previous attempts focused on winter ascents, he will first climb the mountain in autumn:
“I’ve always tried it in winter. Now I want to go in fall, the best season, to assess both the conditions and myself.”
If conditions allow, he may immediately transition into another winter attempt – a goal he has pursued unsuccessfully for years.
Winter Mountaineering Is Changing
Moro also reflected on the evolution of winter climbing, especially under the impact of climate change.
He noted increasingly unstable conditions in the Himalaya:
- Stronger winds
- More extreme temperature fluctuations
- Shorter stable weather windows
Yet, he rejected the idea that winter mountaineering is declining:
“I don’t think it’s disappearing – it’s evolving and finding new life.”
A New Generation, A New Style
According to Moro, modern climbers are redefining winter alpinism, especially in the Alps.
“Today, winter mountaineering is no longer about endurance and suffering, but performance in extreme situations.”
He emphasized improvements in:
- Technical skill
- Equipment
- Risk management
“We are not raising a generation of kamikazes.”
Truth, Failure, and the Confortola Case
The interview also touched on ethics in mountaineering, including the controversial case involving Italian climber Daniele Confortola.
Moro criticized self-promotion based on questionable claims:
“Self-celebration at the cost of lying is a waste of opportunity.”
He added a deeper reflection:
“The greatest opportunity is being loved for who you are, not for what you do.”
Moro stressed that failure should not be hidden, referencing his own decade of unsuccessful winter attempts on Manaslu:
“I have never hidden my failures.”
Beyond Climbing: A Rescue Vision
Beyond expeditions, Moro is also working on a long-term humanitarian goal – launching an independent air ambulance service in Pakistan.
He revealed that progress is finally being made:
- Two helicopters are ready
- Inspections are expected soon
- Deployment could begin by summer
A Return with Purpose
After a near-fatal incident, Moro is not just returning to climbing – he is returning with clarity.
“Dreaming is free, but turning a dream into an intention requires effort.”
With Denali ahead and Manaslu still unfinished, his story is far from over.
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