Tyler Andrews Plots Everest Comeback for Speed Record

Renowned U.S. mountain runner Tyler C. Andrews is returning to Mount Everest this October for another bold attempt to set the fastest known time (FKT) from Base Camp to the summit, without the use of supplemental oxygen. With over 85 FKTs to his name and records on peaks like Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam, Andrews is no stranger to pushing human limits at high altitude.

Tyler Andrews

This past spring, Andrews made three serious summit attempts on Everest from the south side. His first try, on May 10–11, was cut short above Camp 3 due to a boot malfunction. On May 23 – 24, he gave it another go – this time with supplemental oxygen because of extreme winds – but had to turn around above Camp 4 due to unsafe conditions. His final effort on May 26 – 27 was again without oxygen. He moved fast and strong through the night, reaching past the Balcony (~8,400 m) on a record-setting pace before deciding to descend for safety reasons. Though the summit remained just out of reach, he proved his physical and mental readiness to take on this challenge.

Complicating the spring season were the rapidly deteriorating conditions on the Khumbu Icefall. Ladders collapsed, crevasses widened, and Icefall Doctors officially closed the route on May 29. By then, descending the mountain had become more dangerous than going up. Still, Andrews completed his descent to Base Camp safely, underscoring his cautious approach even in pursuit of a world record.

Now, Andrews has announced his return this fall for a fourth Everest campaign. His aim remains the same: summit the world’s highest mountain from Base Camp faster than anyone has before, without the use of supplemental oxygen. The current record, held by Kaji Sherpa since 1998, stands at 20 hours and 24 minutes. This fall, Tyler hopes to break that.

He’ll be supported once again by his training partner Chris Fisher through the Icefall, with real-time GPS tracking via InReach. His preparations, strategy, and attempt will be documented through his blog, podcast, and social media.

With unmatched endurance, a disciplined mindset, and deep respect for the mountain, Tyler Andrews continues to raise the bar for what’s possible in high-altitude speed climbing. As the fall season approaches, all eyes are once again on Everest.