A side-by-side composite photo featuring two male mountain climbers. On the left is a close-up portrait of an Asian man (appearing Korean) with short black hair, wearing a plain dark or black shirt. He has a serious, stoic expression with slightly furrowed brows, looking directly at the camera against a neutral background. On the right is a full upper-body shot of another Asian man (appearing Nepali) outdoors in a snowy Himalayan mountain environment with rugged peaks and snow-covered slopes in the background.

New Recovery Attempt on Winter Makalu After Tragedy

After the tragic winter ascent of Mount Makalu that claimed the life of Phurba Ongel Sherpa and left Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali missing, recovery teams are preparing a new attempt to locate and retrieve both climbers.

A side-by-side composite photo featuring two male mountain climbers. On the left is a close-up portrait of an Asian man (appearing Korean) with short black hair, wearing a plain dark or black shirt. He has a serious, stoic expression with slightly furrowed brows, looking directly at the camera against a neutral background. On the right is a full upper-body shot of another Asian man (appearing Nepali) outdoors in a snowy Himalayan mountain environment with rugged peaks and snow-covered slopes in the background.

Photo Courtesy: Makalu Adventure

With forecasts indicating lighter winds later this week, the recovery team on Makalu has readied a second attempt to recover Phurba Ongel Sherpa’s body and search for Abolfazl Gozali, who remains unaccounted for near Camp IV.

In the initial days after the summit push, teams were forced back by harsh conditions; recent attempts could not reach the critical zones due to high winds and low temperatures near Camp III, leaving no trace of the missing Iranian climber.

Middle-aged East Asian man with short black hair, looking directly at the camera with a slightly serious/focused expression.

File image of Phurba Ongel Sherpa. Photo: Pioneer Adventure

Makalu Adventure, the outfitter organising the expedition, confirmed that additional food, oxygen cylinders, and fuel have been flown to base camp in preparation for renewed efforts once the weather window opens.


A voluntary search and recovery team from 8K Expeditions, composed of experienced Sherpa rescuers, has joined the effort. Representatives from 8K Expeditions confirmed mobilisation of the team to assist in locating Abolfazl and attempting to retrieve the body of Phurba Ongel from near Camp III.

Makalu Adventure said it remains in close communication with Phurba Ongel’s family and is coordinating with the Iranian Embassy, although communication challenges persist due to international logistical constraints.


The renewed search comes after the earlier tragedy during the descent from Makalu’s summit, where Phurba Ongel Sherpa fell on a high plateau near 7,500 metres, and Abolfazl Gozali was last seen crossing the same area before vanishing.

Recovery teams are currently stationed at Base Camp, awaiting a safe weather window – particularly a drop in winds – That would allow them to push higher on the mountain and continue their search operation. Officials emphasise that weather conditions at extreme altitude will dictate the pace and feasibility of the next attempt.

This update reflects the situation as operations continue on Makalu. We will provide further updates as more information becomes available.

Anano Atabegashvili

About Anano Atabegashvili

Anano Atabegashvili is a journalist with over 7 years of experience in broadcasting and online media. She combines her two greatest passions - writing and mountains - through in-depth reporting on the world of high-altitude exploration. Though not a climber herself, she has covered remote stories, interviewed leading alpinists, and built a unique voice in expedition journalism. As the author of the Summiters Club blog, Anano delivers timely, insightful coverage of climbs, challenges, and the evolving culture of alpinism - with a journalist’s precision and a deep admiration for the mountain world.

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